Wednesday, June 17, 2009

The Balearic Islands

From Gibraltar we did a big sail to get to Menorca in time to meet Grandma and Grandad. This led us to sail almost 500 miles in 6 days. We did 3 days at sea to a place called Althea (just north of Benidorm). During this 3 day epic we covered every possible combination of sails - from 3 reefs and gale warnings to flat calm and motoring. Had to keep an eye on the engine however, here are some pesky critters caught up in the water strainer.




It can get quite boring stuck on board. Leads the crew to experiment with all kinds of things. Here is Silas trying the lazy way of juicing an orange...





We also managed to enjoy some great downwind sailing... and the cruising chute got another outing.




The view of Benidorm from the sea, rather like a mini Rio de Janeiro?




Whilst at sea we have to be self sufficient and we have mastered the recipe for no knead (just pummel a bit) soft bread rolls. Fantastic!




Unlike our last boat that had no mod cons, we also have the luxury of being able to make water and shower en route. Chris enjoys his commune with nature.




Bath time for the junior members however is in our multi-purpose bucket.



We even managed a rare family shot when everybody is actually looking at the camera.





We sailed from the mainland to
Ibiza firstly... 24hr foam parties anybody..??




or perhaps some schoolwork instead. (aargh we are getting old and boring)




Onwards to Mallorca, we cruised the Northern coast, with its incredible sea cliffs.




We even explored a few of then by dinghy.





Amos celebrated his 3rd birthday in Port Andratx (Mallorca)



Mmmm!





We even managed to meet another cruising family - the first since Carina last August. Anna-Lisa were from Sweden and were spending a year in the Med with their 18mth old and 4 year old. We enjoyed several days out with them and a lovely Impromptu beach picnic at Port Soller, Mallorca.




We caught the ancient restored train from Soller over the mountainous island to Palma, the capital of Mallorca.





Unfortunately the electric gantry on the top of the train collapsed, leaving us stranded. However a daring walk along the tracks got us to a new underground station where efficient air-conditioned trains were found.





The stupendous cathedral in Palma. The best we have ever seen.




Whilst in Mallorca we caught up on some underwater boat maintenance - check the anchor, polish the propeller, look at the anodes, scrape the weed... Beats working in an office anyway.




However, just after we were all settling into some wonderful easy cruising Amos got very sick with an infected ear causing Meningitis like symptoms... After 3 days in Mahon hospital and he was fighting fit again, but a scary experience for all of us. We cannot thank the doctors and nurses enough for all their kindness, compassion and patience with our excruciatingly bad Spanish.




Then the grandparents arrived. Babysitters at last!!




We got to celebrate Grandad's birthday.








Sunset at Fornells in Menorca




Time to go to sea, here Steph is explaining the weather gage.

.



We sailed from Fornells in the North to the capital Mahon in the South of Menorca. This port was used extensively by various navies during the 17th and 18th century resulting in a wonderful fort at the entrance to the harbour called 'La Mola'.





There were acres and acres of vaulted caverns, galleries and fortified walls (and very BIG guns). The Loop Holed Gallery was like something out of a surreal dream, it was 390 metres long and has 48 perfectly aligned casemates.








We managed to find a cheap spot to tie to a buoy. However the downside was that the cruise ships came remarkably close to OOMU where we were moored.




Our Swedish friends aboard
Anna-Lisa caught up with us and we cruised with them for a while




Matilda (on board
Anna-Lisa) contemplates OOMU.




Whilst moored in Mahon harbour, we were very kindly invited to a nearby house by some British holidaymakers. (who were renting it from Richard Branson's sister). This is the kind of thing that I love about cruising, we were sat in the cockpit wondering what to do when a motorboat pops up out of the blue and invites us to spend the afternoon in the pool. Life does not get any better!




Check out the fantastic view from the kitchen terrace.




From Mahon, we returned to Fornells to spend the last few days with Grandma and Grandad, enjoying the playground.



We are now sitting waiting for suitable weather (it is blowing a gale from the Northwest at the moment) to head towards Sardinia.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Morocco

From Gibraltar we decided to head to Morocco. We couldn't find a Moroccan courtesy flag so we had to make one. Tricky things are stars on flags.




We planned on sailing to Smir (about 10 miles south of Ceuta) leaving Oomu there, and then heading inland. However, our plans were thwarted when we arrived and found that it would cost 43 Euros a night for the boat in the marina. (It cost a fraction of that in Gibraltar). We spent 3 nights in Smir and decided it would be better to leave the boat in Gibraltar, while we took the fast ferry to Tangiers, then trains to see the interior of Morocco.




The Moroccan Train system was efficient and on time, apart from the sporadic air conditioning. No hassles whatsoever during our visit on trains, ferries and taxis, although having kids with us probably helped in this respect.
In fact we never got hassled once whilst in Morocco. Either living in Mauritania has given us the beggar 'dont hassle us' stare, or the locals go soft at the sight of two blond boys..?

The locals made us very welcome.
We got to meet lots of people on the train who were truly hospitable and friendly. Silas even made some friends.




We stayed in the ancient city of Fes (Fez), an 8 hour trip from Tangier. The medieval medina was awesome - tiny twisting alleyways, bustling with traders and donkey carts. Wobbly buildings, mosques and the ancient leather tannery
.




We tried all sorts of street food.
(only joking). These are endangered tiny tortoises.




We found tiny bakeries.




Haggled at the market for spices.



Visited very old Muslim mosques and universities, with incredible carving and mosaic work. (And fountains for two bored boys to splash in)










The local butcher in Fes had a great variety of meat! Seriously however, we bought the best lamb ever and a wonderful whole chicken in Morocco. The quality of food in the markets was fantastic. (and very very cheap)





Everywhere we went in Morocco and Spain the children always seem to be given sweets. I fear for the state of their teeth.




We also got to visit some Roman ruins at Volbilis, near Fes which had wonderfully preserved mosaic work.








After the wonders of so many incredible buildings and so much amazing craftsmanship, the tomb of Moulay Ismail at Meknes rendered us totally speechless.



However, we were always conscious that this weeks school lessons were focused on 'bugs'. The boys were kept busy on the lookout for bugs at every opportunity.




Fes was bonkers - noisy, chaotic and we loved it.




We also visited a town on the Med coast called Tetouan. This was very different to Fes - quieter, less touristy but also with an interesting ancient medina








Yet another Leather tannery in Tetouan
. This time we got to walk through the middle of it. I was petrified that Amos would fall into some vat filled with a foul substance. The place stank to high heaven.




In the days of health and safety madness it was refreshing to just be able to wander through.





Unfortunately, we were unable to leave the country without being sold a carpet. I'm still not quite sure how we succumbed...